A visit to an opera implies a bit of a special occasion, mainly because of the ticket prices. Putting on the large scale productions, involving orchestra, highly trained singers and lavish sets costs thousands and even then needs subsidy to survive. Last Wednesday I went to Fiona Shaw’s production of A Marriage of Figaro, beautifully …
Small plates
Saturday in Covent Garden – 15 March 11
Kopapa is now bedding down nicely into Covent Garden. I first visited on its second Saturday night, and although the food was extraordinary enough to get me back, the staff and layout weren’t. However it’s very unfair to publicise a review so soon after it’s opening. There are always going to be glitches. That’s why …
A change in eating habits – 14 Jan 11
You may be forgiven for thinking that, not only are we out of recession in London, but already well into boom times. I’ve just been making a list; the number of restaurant and cafe ventures opening is phenomenal. Some are extensions of established businesses such as Nopi, the new concept from Ottolengi, scheduled to open in …
Crossing frontiers – 23 July 10
In the early nineties, restaurants were still stuck within national culinary boundaries, although the loosening-up process had begun in 1987 at the River Cafe in Hammersmith. There, Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers demonstrated that Italian food was more than antipasta, pasta and risotto: freshness and seasonality was the name of the game. They launched bright …
Caravan – 8 March 10
Orange water blancmange, guava sorbet & pistachio Okay Time Out, all is forgiven (See blog date 24 Feb). This week’s featured venue, Caravan, is spot on in lots of ways. I’ve been there twice now: first of all to snoop and chat at down time, and yesterday for brunch. It was heaving by 11.30 and …
French Exchange – 30 March 09
On the premises of an old fish shop in Paris 6eme, an American and a New Zealander run a wine bar with a restaurant attached. It has the rather puzzling name of: Fish, La Boissonnerie (the P of Poissonnerie having been changed to reflect its new function). The format favours lone American and British ex-pats who sit at the bar, and …
