In case you thought there were more than enough restaurants at the Farringdon road end of Exmouth Market, let me introduce you to another one. Quietly over the last 2 months a Chinese takeaway has metamorphosed into la Ferme, a small stylish but not-at-all-trendy restaurant and shop. It couldn’t be more French if it tried. …
Favourite restaurants
The Greek Larder
Theodore Kyriakou is an old hand, with great taste in spectacles. He was instrumental in 1999 in introducing Londoners to a world of Greek food away from the standard kebab, chips and salad formula, sensibly choosing bargain sites. The Real Greek opened in Hoxton Market when the area was edgy. Before this, Livebait in 1995 …
Babaji Istanbul Pide Salonu
Since Wagamama, Hakkasan and Yauatcha, Alan Yau seems to be making it increasingly tricky to pronounce the names of his enterprises. The last one, a Bangkok cafe called NaamYaa, maybe even suffered from this, although most seem now to have got their tongues round the Thai chain Busaba Eathai. Until we have the opening of …
Lima Floral – Peruvian gastro revolution (1)
What makes for a successful restaurant? The food, the food I hear you reply, but it is by no means the only factor. In fact, it is only one of many. For example the way the person who greets you is vital. That first moment of stepping on to the premises can set your mood …
La Table des Anges
Perhaps the proprietor of this restaurant was thinking of the book An Angel at My Table by the New Zealand writer Janet Frame, when he decided to build an identity to launch his new venture. But I didn’t ask him. I have the FT critic Nick Lander to thank for having found this restaurant. By …
Grain Store Kings Cross
The January before last, the restaurant critic AA Gill declared 2012 to be the year of the vegetable. In the event, this prediction did not materialise as it was instead the rise of Mark Hix’s Tramshed serving only two types of meat: steak and chicken, Meat Liquor, Meat Wagon, and as many other name permutations …
Bonnie Gull
Pop ups are a good idea. For the novelty and ephemerality element obviously, but also from a practical point of view. You can try out an idea first before committing to a long lease. Alex Hunter and Danny Clancy had been wholesale seafood suppliers before teaming up with another wholesaler, this time of game, to …
Septime – Paris
I don’t much like booking weeks ahead for a restaurant. Necessary perhaps when there’s a special occasion or a group of people to get together, but otherwise, to have to plan at least 4 weeks ahead to eat some food seems excessive. And somehow the build up is bound to end in disappointment. One advantage …
Caravan Kings Cross
It’s hard to think it’s only just over 2 years since Caravan opened its doors at the end of Exmouth Market. The pared-down recycled look combined with a relaxed all day eating style has since become ubiquitous. However laid back they may seem, the two operating owners have always been clear about their intentions. Chris …
